JST connectors pitch 2.0mm Who has not torn off its connector while trying to disconnect it from the circuit where it was in operation ... Welcome to the club, they are not intended for perforated PCBs because the pitch is 2.54mm, but these connectors will allow me to repair damaged printed circuits and replace soldered wires to be able to make the boards more easily removable and accessible .... The final aspect gives a perfect finish.

JST connectors pitch 2.0mm Who has not torn off its connector while trying to disconnect it from the circuit where it was in operation ... Welcome to the club, they are not intended for perforated PCBs because the pitch is 2.54mm, but these connectors will allow me to repair damaged printed circuits and replace soldered wires to be able to make the boards more easily removable and accessible .... The final aspect gives a perfect finish.

JST connectors pitch 2.0mm Who has not torn off its connector while trying to disconnect it from the circuit where it was in operation ... Welcome to the club, they are not intended for perforated PCBs because the pitch is 2.54mm, but these connectors will allow me to repair damaged printed circuits and replace soldered wires to be able to make the boards more easily removable and accessible .... The final aspect gives a perfect finish.

I bought these to make an octopus cable so I could use my 1s multi-charger for my Furi-Whoop. They are super cheap and pretty good for use in non-moving applications. However, I wouldn't use these on the quadcopter itself as they are plastic-coated. Silicone coated wire would be better in terms of vibration/tear resistance. If you're still pretty new with soldering, just make sure you set your iron to a much lower temperature when you're soldering the connector in particular (250 as opposed to 350). On the first connector I tried to solder, I ended up shifting the pin because it was too hot. Connect up an opposite connector on the other side of your join while you're soldering. This will help hold it in place and conduct a little heat away. On the wire side, because of the plastic coating, Holding the heat too long will cause the coating to melt away from the solder join, so be quick and be careful.

I bought these to make an octopus cable so I could use my 1s multi-charger for my Furi-Whoop. They are super cheap and pretty good for use in non-moving applications. However, I wouldn't use these on the quadcopter itself as they are plastic-coated. Silicone coated wire would be better in terms of vibration/tear resistance. If you're still pretty new with soldering, just make sure you set your iron to a much lower temperature when you're soldering the connector in particular (250 as opposed to 350). On the first connector I tried to solder, I ended up shifting the pin because it was too hot. Connect up an opposite connector on the other side of your join while you're soldering. This will help hold it in place and conduct a little heat away. On the wire side, because of the plastic coating, Holding the heat too long will cause the coating to melt away from the solder join, so be quick and be careful.

I bought these to make an octopus cable so I could use my 1s multi-charger for my Furi-Whoop. They are super cheap and pretty good for use in non-moving applications. However, I wouldn't use these on the quadcopter itself as they are plastic-coated. Silicone coated wire would be better in terms of vibration/tear resistance. If you're still pretty new with soldering, just make sure you set your iron to a much lower temperature when you're soldering the connector in particular (250 as opposed to 350). On the first connector I tried to solder, I ended up shifting the pin because it was too hot. Connect up an opposite connector on the other side of your join while you're soldering. This will help hold it in place and conduct a little heat away. On the wire side, because of the plastic coating, Holding the heat too long will cause the coating to melt away from the solder join, so be quick and be careful.